Wednesday, May 22, 2013

Italy Part 3 - Montalcino, Siena

Our final stop (and a few more pictures) in Tuscany.  Montalcino & Siena.

Montalcino = Brunello wine.  That was our focus.  Brunello di Montalcino is one of the wines that Pat purchases in disturbing quantities from his personal Italian Wine Merchants "portfolio manager".  Whenever I hesitate to buy myself something, I remind myself of Pat's hobby & spend the money.

I learned a lot about Brunello.  The name Brunello means "little brown one", which is what the grape looks like when harvested.  And the DOCG has very strict rules around what is required to call a wine a Brunello.  It can only be made from 100% Sangiovese grapes grown in a 2000 hectare region of Montalcino.  It must be aged in oak barrels for a minimum of 2 years, and bottled for 4-6 months.  There are rules around how many grapes can be harvested per hectare, and how many years the vineyard can produce grapes.  So many rules.

But it is pretty tasty.  Garnet in color, berry & chocolate flavors, high acid & smooth tannins so it pairs really well with food.  And it can sit for a long time.  You can cellar it for 10 years and up to 30-40 years, depending on the producer & vintage. 

But enough about wine, which I could talk about for days................

Our 1st stop was Camigliano.  We found the town using our GPS, and walked around for at least 20 minutes trying to find the winery.  It was in a REALLY small village.  We later learned that only 32 people live here, and it has a church & a winery. I guess that covers the basics.....


The church


The winery


Pat negotiating a price on one of these barrels
We bought some wine & shipped it to a friend in Brussels since you can't ship anything into Russia.  Doesn't it figure that 2 wine geeks would live somewhere that it's impossible to get good wine?

Then we visited Altesino for more wine tasting.





These are traditional Brunello barrels from Slovakia, which hold 10,000 liters of wine!  I learned that Brunello is never aged in small oak barrels - it imparts too much flavor.   


These French oak barrels are used for Altesino's Super Tuscan wines.  Which were also very tasty!


Then, we spent some time walking through the hill town of Montalcino.  It's another old Etrusian city, in existence since the 8th Century. 

Sant'Agostino Church from the 13th Century


So many narrow alleys & steep hills

Montalcino's Duomo


A great park overlooking the valley

Rocca di Montalcino.  The Fortress, located on the highest point in town
& was part of the original walls around the city

Montalcino kitty
Finally, on to Siena.  I liked it.  But honestly, it was my least favorite place that we visited in Tuscany.  Maybe because it gets all of the hype & press?  And there were huge tour groups walking around like cattle, following their guide?  I did love the Siena Duomo.  But overall, I just felt like it was over-crowded with tour groups.


One of the main gates to enter the walled city



Piazza del Campo, the main square.  It's enormous! 
They hold a horse race in the square twice a year, which must be wild to see


Torre del Mangia (Mangia Tower) and Palazzo Pubblico (Town Hall).  The square is sectioned into 9 separate areas, representing the Rule of the Nine, who ruled Siena when it was a power in medieval times

As I mentioned, the Duomo was the highlight for me.  This is their "new" cathedral, built in the 13th & 14th Centuries when Siena was strong power in Europe.  

The Duomo


See the lantern at the top of the dome?  It was designed by Bernini, and the blue with gold stars was added in the late 15th Century.  So pretty......


The best part were the inlaid mosaics covering the entire cathedral floor, all in black, white, and siena brown.  56 different panels in total, done during the 14th - 16th centuries.  This one was my favorite, called "She-Wolf of Siena".  It represents each of the confederate cities of Italy at the time, with (of course) Siena at it's center. 

It's Romulus & Remus that are sucking on the She-Wolf.  In the ancient folk stories, Romulus founded Rome. 
I read that the connection to Siena is that Remus's son founded Siena. 
Anyway, there are a lot of She-Wolf references throughout Siena. 

The baptismal font in the Baptistry (Battistero di San Giovanni). The bronze panels represented the life of John the Baptist.  Just beautiful

me
I, of course, have to add a few food & market shots




And a dog shot.  I can't resist taking pictures of people's pets :)


A few parting shots of Siena.  








2 comments:

  1. Just lovely, Jen! Glad you got in such a lovely holiday! My boss just got back from 10 days in Italy, and he loved it there. Keep taking those kitty pix! xox -betsy

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  2. Oh, Jen, your pictures are just wonderful. That new camera was a very good investment. Now I need some Brunello and some gelato. You're not doing my diet any favors !

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