Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Dubrovnik - the walled city

As in Croatia.  Former member of Yugoslavia, declared independence in 1991 after the fall of communist rule throughout the region.  But in war conflict with the Serbs from 1991-1995 in their fight for independence.

A great place to visit.  We loved it.

Quick geography lesson.....  Here's the former Yugoslavia countries, with Croatia in yellow

 
 
And as I mentioned in the title, we visited Dubrovnik, which is the southern region of Croatia known as Dalmatia.  Fun fact - the Dalmatian spotted dog is named after this region, due it's spots resembling the 1000+ islands that line the coast of Croatia.  Some sources say the 1st dalmatians were from Croatia, but our tour guide said this wasn't true.   
 
Sources differ on how many of the islands are inhabited by at least 1 person -  somewhere between 50-65.  I need my own island!
 
 


Dubrovnik is a walled city (considered one of the 10 best preserved medieval walled cities), and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  The walls run 2 km around the city, and are 4-6 meters (13-20 feet) thick. 

If you watch the HBO series Game of Thrones, which I do not, the Dubrovnik city walls (and other surrounding areas) are filmed for the show.  All of the locals asked us about Game of Thrones (I guess I need to download Season 1).



Here's the old city.  We stayed just to the right of the photo, at a hotel called Villa Dubrovnik.  But more on that later.....


At our hotel, with the city in the background.  It may look far in the photos, but it was a easy 15 minute walk (or 8 minute boat ride if you're feeling lazy)


The city of Dubrovnik was built & grew due to it's sea trade, and in the Middle Ages, it became one of the few city-states in the Adriatic region that rivaled Venice.  The city developed significantly during the 15th and 16th centuries.  At one time, Dubrovnik was an independent republic and it managed to survive for many centuries, despite constant threats to its territory from the Ottoman Empire and Venice.

Today, Dubrovnik still has a very active seaport, but tourism is now their primary industry.  Especially cruise ships.  It has around 40,000 year-round inhabitants, and is called the "Pearl of the Adriatic"
 
 
You can walk along the entire city wall, and it gives you great views of the inner city and the surrounding areas.    There are sections of the wall that still show damage from the 1991 bombings of the city.


Here is Minceta Tower, and it is located on the northern section of the wall.  It was built in 1319, and is the highest point on the wall.


One of several bell towers along the wall pathway




I was impressed by the size of this fireplace


Lots of terracotta rooftops....  It's hard to see in the photos, but you could see many old roofs next to very new roofs, which were replaced after the 1991 bombings of Dubrovnik (during the Croatian War of Independence)


Fort Lovrijenac, which is built on a 37 meter (120 foot) high rock along the sea, built in the 11th Century.  The fort was built to defend the city against Venetians.


Enjoying the view and the weather


Here is Lokrum Island in the background, The Dubrovnik Cathedral (Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary) on the right, and St. Blaise Church on the left.


Currently a Hilton, this was once the Grand Imperial Hotel.  Build in 1897, it was the 1st location with electricity and an elevator.  It was a refugee shelter for local residents during the 1991 bombings, and was directly hit by several bombs.


An example of a house that was directly hit by the bombs, and never repaired.


The Franciscan Monastery.  Built in 1317.  It apparently has the 3rd oldest pharmacy in the world still operating inside (I didn't go in).





A great garden....  Love the monks!


The Stradum, or Placa Street.  The main merchant street and gathering place in the city.  It's paved in incredibly smooth and polished (and slippery) limestone. 


Big Onofrio's Fountain..... one of two fountains that supplied water to city residents.  Build in the 15th century, along with a large aqueduct system.


More damaged homes and buildings from the bombings......


A shirt for my Mom


It was laundry day on our day of the walk (a nice sunny day)



 
One of many small chapels..... 

 
Finally, lunch!   Our go-to meal every day was small fried fish (like smelts).  And this day, we added in some scampi in tomato broth. 
 

 
 
After lunch, we just wandered the streets....
 



 
I'll have a few more posts on Croatia in the coming days.....  But here's a few more pictures of the beautiful coastline!
 
If you've ever considered Croatia for a vacation, go!
 





Monday, September 15, 2014

St. Petersburg in early July.... July????

Hi there!

Yes, these are some old pictures!!!  I intended to post an update on our beautiful July weather back when it was current.  But I lost motivation when I hurt my ankle. 

But anyway, they are still worth sharing because they show a different part of the city than I've shared before.  So here it goes........


We decided to walk Northeast along the Neva River, to the Smolnyy Cathedral & Convent. It checked the map afterwards, and it was a 5.5 km walk (or roughly 3.5 miles).

Smolnyy Convent was founded in the late 1700's by Tsarina Elizabeth, as a place for Russian noblewomen to be educated.


It took 7 years to build the architect's model, and 85 years to build (with several starts and stops in between).  The architect was Italian, and fused both Russian and Baroque styles in the design.  But Catherine the Great (reigning from 1762 - 1796) didn't like the design and stopped the funding.  It was restarted in 1832 under Tsar Nicolas I, and finished 3 years later.  Tsar Nicolas I commissioned a Russian neo-classical architect Vasily Stasov to complete the work. 



The Cathedral is stunning - domed, with 4 cupolas each topped with golden orbs. It's used today for exhibitions, musical recitals. 


There's always a wedding party somewhere!  But the bride and groom appear to be missing......


These cherubs are frightening, don't you think?


The bell tower within the convent


I think this is a bell from an old bell tower.... not sure, and I couldn't find any descriptions nearby.



When I see an old tree in St. Petersburg, I think about everything these trees have seen throughout the years.  Because many of the trees were cut down during the 900 day siege of Leningrad during WWII for heat, and many others just didn't survive over the years. 

 
 
Next, we walked West, along Tverskaya Ulitsa.  And saw this unique church.  I'm still note sure of it's name.  I liked the lace-like eaves all around the building and the black onion domes
 




Then we hit a park that I never visited before, and wish I had.  Tavrichesky Sad, which is apparently also known as Taurida Gardens.

Good story here - the gardens were developed (along with an accompanying palace) in 1783-1789 as a present to Gregoriy Potemkin, who was one of Catherine the Great's favorite lovers. 

In a connection to current events - Potemkin is responsible for annexing Crimea to Russia in 1783, which is why he was given the title of Prince of Tauridia (Crimea's ancient name).


The gardens are beautiful!  There are ponds, canals, trees & shrubs imported from the UK, soccer fields.  My plan was to visit this place several times this summer.  That didn't happen, but I'm planning to get back in the fall.




My guy making a face....


And a bride who looks like she's had enough with this photographer!


Continuing our walk westward, we come upon a Chinese padoga (not pictured) and this wall.  Hmm.....


And these black swans in the pond behind the Russian Museum


A good sized wedding party at Peter & Paul Cathedral


And another one, although this guy in front refused to get out of the picture!


Children (young - around 10 years old!) in a jet ski race on the Neva River


I'm not sure what this spot is called, but it's fascinating to watch.  These guys throw (actually, hurl) a wooden bat though the air to hit the wooden pins at the end.  The pins are configured in increasing complex ways. 


Here is the city's only mosque, Sobornaya Mosque, which also happens to be one of the largest in all of Europe.  It was build from 1910-1914, and is undergoing a renovation now.



Old Trinity Chapel.  On this site was the Trinity Cathedral, which was the oldest church in St. Petersburg.  It was here that Peter the Great celebrated the end of the war in 1721 Great Northern War and was proclaimed the 1st Emperor of Russia.  The cathedral was ordered to be destroyed by the Soviet government in 1933, because it represented the past and religion. 

This chapel was built in the 1990's on the original site


Finally, a stop at Palace Square.  To watch......  skaters on ski's race around a circular track!  OK, why not?



Finally, all this exploring made me thirsty!!