Prague Birthday Weekend

Yes, I know.  This post is REALLY late.  Because this would be a May birthday!

 

I was doing so well with my posts.  They were timely, frequent, on point.  Then I left for the US for a few weeks, came home, and I've fallen behind.  Then it was raining for 2 weeks straight (and only 60-65 degrees F), so I wasn't taking any pictures.  And then, I broke my ankle! 

 

But here we go....................We visited Prague for my birthday in May.

 

And if there is one thing we will remember about Prague, here it is.  Old Prague Ham.  Roasting over wood coals through the city square all day. 



 

 

But more on that later.

 

So what can I mention about Prague?  Well, we really enjoyed it!  It's a very easy place to visit.  The people were incredibly friendly and there's a general sense of optimism & desire to continue to move forward.  They fought there way out of Communism, and continue to push for change.

 

The city is beautiful.  It wasn't as badly damaged during WWII as many other European cities.   The Germans occupied the country's north and western regions by 1938, as a result of the Munich Agreement.  Hitler proclaimed Bohemia and Moravia to be a "German protectorate". His plan was to make the country "ethnically clean" and German.  Most Jews and others "undesirables" were tragically killed and sent to camps.  There were several bombing raids towards the end of the war, but much of the city stayed intact 

 

 

After the War, the Soviets came to town.  In 1945, the region called Czechoslovakia was reinstated.  But over the next 3 years, it gradually fell under Communist & Soviet rule.  Many Czechoslovakians held resentments towards the Western governments (and political parties) due to their treatment in the Munich Agreement.  And in 1948, the Czech President gave in to demands from the Communist Prime Minister and appointed a 100% Communist cabinet.

It remained under communist rule for 41 years, until the 1989 Velvet Revolution.  Named because it was a bloodless revolution, "smooth as velvet".  What started as a series of student protests freed the nation.  Pretty remarkable......... 

But let's start the sightseeing!  The Lesser Town Bridge Tower, at the end of the Charles Bridge

A long distance view of the Charles Bridge. The Charles Bridge is famous for being lined with statues of various saints, and at one time it was the only link between Lesser Town  or Mala Strana(where the Prague Castle resides) and Old Town. 

It's also famous for being the location that Jim Phelps (Jon Voight) fakes his death in front of Ethan Hunt (Tom Cruise) in the 1st Mission Impossible movie.  I tried to get Pat to re-create the scene, but he wouldn't play along :)

At the other end of the bridge is the Old Town Bridge Tower.

 

Kranner's Fountain. 

 

 

Lunchtime!  I think he's (pleasantly) shocked by the size of his roasted pork knuckle.

 



 

Lots of interesting doors throughout the Old & Lesser Town areas.  When (if!!!) I ever own a home again, I want a cool door.

 

 

 

A view of the Prague Castle and the Vitava River

 

 

Here is Pat at the top of the hill in Lesser Town, near Prague Castle.

 

The castle complex is the largest ancient castle in the world, covering a total of 70,000 m2.   There are multiple palaces, churches, squares.  We didn't see everything by a long shot

 



 

St. George Basilica and Convent.  Rebuilt in the 12th Century to replace an older 10th Century church (the oldest within the palace grounds), but the façade is from the 17th Century. 

 



Very atmospheric inside.  Old, dark wood on the ceiling.  Very tall but narrow.  Carved stone walls

Old frescos throughout the basilica

 

The beautiful, Gothic St. Vitus Cathedral.  Definitely a highlight when visiting Prague Castle.  The Cathedral was commissioned by Charles IV, and construction began in 1344 on the site of a 10th Century rotunda.

 

It took 6 centuries to complete.  Here you can see the Golden Gate - it is through this portal that the kings entered the cathedral for coronation ceremonies.

I love gargoyles!!!

 

 

Each of the chapels along the outer aisles have these amazing stained glass windows from the 19th and 20th Century.  

The cathedral is a great example of 14th Century Gothic architecture. 

 

We've had enough history & churches.  It's time for a beer.  Or three!

 

We stumbled across this beer festival, along the Vitava River.  It was awesome!  You bought a glass mug for 3 Euro, and then could buy all different types of beers, mostly from small private-owned inns and brewers. 

 

A happy man.  It's time for a Pivo!

Lunch was blood sausage and the Czech version of haluski (potato dumplings, cabbage, ham).  The blood sausage was really tasty, maybe the best I've ever had.  Perfect blend of spices and...... blood

 

The Powder Tower.  Originally used to store gunpowder, it was built in 1475 during the reign of King Vladislav II Jagiello at the site of one of Prague's 13 original city gates.

St. Wenceslas on his horse, at the end of Wenceslas Square (which is really a wide boulevard).  Good King Wencesals, who was murdered by his brother Bolslav the Cruel (what a name!) in 935, and is considered a Czech hero.

Old Town Square, which dates from the 12th Century is was the primary marketplace for Prague.  The architecture is a mixture of Romanesque, Baroque, Gothic.

 

 

 

 

The Old Town Tower and Astronomical Clock, built in 1338.  On the hour, a small trap door opens and Christ marches out ahead of his disciples, while a "skeleton of death" tolls the bell.  It sounds more exciting than it really is, but it draws a crowd!

 

 

 

OK, so now it's finally time for some Old Prague Ham.  It's everywhere in the square.  You pay by the ounce, and they just serve it on a paper plate with some bread.

 

These guys stand by their wood grills all day.  I wonder if they no longer can stand the smell (or eat) ham?

 



 

 

So we shared a Czech kolbasa.

 



 

And some ham.  It was worth the wait.........................

And we had musical entertainment while we ate!  We saw these guys several times over the weekend, in different locations.

We took a walk (to work off the ham) in the woods & gardens near Petrin Hill.  There were some great views of the city

 

 It's always great when you stumble across something you didn't expect or weren't looking for.  This installation is called the Memorial to the Victims of Communism, and is located in a park at the base of Petrin Hill in Lesser Town Prague.

 

It was unveiled in 2002.  7 figures descending a flight of stairs, with each figure appearing more "decayed" the farther they are from you.

 



"The memorial to the victims of communism is dedicated to all victims not only those who were jailed or executed but also those whose lives were ruined by totalitarian despotism"

There is also a bronze strip across the memorial, showing estimated numbers of those impacted by communism:

• 205,486 arrested
• 170,938 forced into exile
• 4,500 died in prison
• 327 shot trying to escape
• 248 executed

Pretty powerful........

 

 Riegrovy Park.  The hotel recommended it to us to explore on Sunday, since many things are closed.

 

The Radio Free Europe tower.  Did you know Radio Free Europe was started in 1949 by a US-based group (National Committee for a Free Europe) as an anti-communist propaganda news source, and was primarily funded by the CIA until 1972?

The headquarters were originally stationed in Munich Germany, but moved to Prague in 1995.
 

Me, in Riegrovy Park, with the old city in the background.

 

 A few final views of the castle, the river, and Charles Bridge