Thursday, June 27, 2013

Photos of the week in St. Petersburg

As I mentioned in my last post, we were preparing for the big White Nights celebration in St. Petersburg, which is normally celebrated on the summer solstice (longest day of the year), or on a close day to coincide with the weekend.  Every year, they hold a big event called the Scarlet Sails;  a big boat parade on the Neva River held from 11:30 until 2am.  We've missed it the past 2 years & really wanted to see it in 2013

We missed it again!

June 21st was on a Friday, so we assumed the big events would be on Friday or the following Saturday.  In fact, every site that I checked on the Internet confirmed that it would be on Saturday, as did a few locals from the office.  So we had big plans:  sleep in late, enjoy the city during the day, take a tap, dinner reservations at 9:30, then head to the river for the festivities.

So what happened?  In short, the Russians changed the date of the event & didn't publish the information beyond a few comments in the newspaper.  They moved it to late Sunday night.  And we had an early Monday, so we missed it AGAIN. 

Who holds a big festival at 2am on Sunday???   Now I know the answer - Russia!

The weekend wasn't a complete bust.  It was still nice & warm, and people were everywhere.  Here are some pictures from the week..............................

It's wedding season.  Russian weddings are very different from what we are accustomed to in the West.  For one, it's typically only a civil ceremony held at the Department of Public Services (called ZAGS in Russian).  You make an appointment, show up with your witnesses (usually what we would call the Best Man and Maid of Honor), and the ceremony lasts 15-20 minutes depending on the crowds.  After the service the bride and groom, along with their witnesses and some close family & friends, go on a tour or drive around their city.  Taking pictures, drinking Champagne, and celebrating.

So here are a few brides that I saw in the park




It was also graduation weekend.  More champagne


We went to dinner at Mansarda, one of our favorite places.  It can be a bit of a "scene", and it's expensive, but the food & service is always good (a rarity in Russia).  Mansarda means attic in Russian, and this restaurant is on the 6th floor of an old palace.

I was photo-bombed in my picture.  Or Pat intentionally snapped the picture when this lady was walking by........



After dinner, we went to the Neva river to watch the light show that happens each evening between 11:30pm - 1:30am in the summer.  They open the bridges, and boats travel through.  There are lots of people out enjoying the night, & most of the kiosks & cafes are still open.




Thursday, June 20, 2013

Moscow

Hi, I'm back.  I was in the US for a very short week.  A trip to Memphis, mostly work but it was a great chance to see many friends. 

On my return trip, I needed to stop in Moscow for a team meeting.  My jet lag was awful, but there's no easy way to get over it so why not spend it in this crazy town that seriously never sleeps!

I would never want to live in Moscow - too expensive, too many people (11 million), a very aggressive place.  It's very Russian.  I'm sure it would be a great place to be your 20's.  But now, I like the "relative" calmness, the European influences, & the culture of St. Petersburg.  But it's fun to visit.

We stayed at the Ritz Carlton.  When in Moscow, stay at the best!


It had a really cool club on the top floor, called the O2 Bar, with a terrace & awesome views of the city, Red Square, and the Kremlin



Russian State Museum & Red Square is in the middle, and the Kremlin is on the right.  On the left is the Hotel Russia, which was built by the government in 1964-1967.  It was the world's largest hotel until 1990 (the Excalibur in Las Vegas surpassed it).  They have been slowly demolishing it, brick by brick, since 2006.


Tverskaya Street in Moscow, one of the main streets in the city center

Kremlin wall
 On our 1st night, we went to the Bolshoi Theatre to see the ballet Giselle.  We were at the small theatre, not the old historic one that was just renovated last year for over $600 million.  I would have loved to have visited the big theatre, but tickets are really hard to get.





I really enjoyed Giselle.  A ballet about a a peasant girl who dies after finding out the love of her life is engaged to someone else.  The 1st act told the story, but the 2nd act was my favorite - very classical dancing in moonlight by Giselle & the Wilis (the spirits of women gilted by their lovers & who died before their weddings).







On our 2nd day, we were able to take a short tour of Red Square & the Kremlin Armory.  Red Square or Krasnaya Ploshchad (Красная площадь) is definitely a "must see" for anyone who gets the chance.  But you'll be amazed by how small it seems!  Maybe it's just me, but it always appeared to be so massive when you'd see it on TV (New Years parades & speeches) in the 70's.

Here's a few pictures of St. Basil's Cathedral.  Built in 1555 by Ivan the Terrible.  I read that Stalin wanted to demolish St. Basil's, to free up the space for massive military rallies & parades, as well as remove such a powerful symbol of the church.  But the architect (Pyotr Baranovsky) made numerous appeals to the government & ultimately won.  Although he was sent to the gulag for 5 years for "dissent".....

There are 10 interconnected towers & small chapels inside. 


St. Basil's Cathedral


St. Basil's Cathedral



One of the Kremlin Towers

Below is Lenin's mausoleum.  Lenin's embalmed body has been on public display since 1924, and you can visit it a few hours each morning.  The tomb was under guard from 1924-1993, but the guard was removed.  There is controversy around whether Lenin should be removed and buried.  Most people, politicians, and the orthodox church seem to believe that he should be given a proper burial, but the Communist Party is strongly against moving him.  So he stays...........


Lenin's tomb


The State History Museum
  

Gum Department Store, the 1st in Russia (built in 1890).  Ridiculously expensive, including an 8 Euro charge to use the bathroom! 


Kazan Cathedral, which was built in the 17th century to commemorate the repulsion of Polish invaders from Russia.  It was rebuilt in the early 1990's
  Below is the reconstructed Resurrection Gate, which was the 1st gate built leading into Red Square in 1535.  The gate was destroyed by Stalin in 1931 to allow for military vehicles to drive through Red Square, but rebuilt in 1994-1996.

The chapel in the center of the structure is called the Iveron Chapel.  Inside is a replica icon of Pangaea Portaitissa "Keeper of the Gate". 

Resurrection Gate & Iveron Chapel
  Here's the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Alexander Garden in front of the Kremlin.  Built in dedication to the Soviet soldiers lost during the Great Patriotic War (WWII) from 1941-1945.  In total, the Soviet Union lost 27 million people, 9 million of which were military.  The rest were civilians who died due to wartime violence, famine, disease, or died in German forced labor camps. 


Tomb of the Unknown Soldier





Sunday, June 9, 2013

A Birthday in Paris

"Paris is always a good idea" - Audrey Hepburn in Sabrina


We went to Paris for the weekend to celebrate my 40-something birthday.  The weather wasn't perfect, but it didn't rain, so I'm not complaining!

I love just walking around Paris with no set agenda.  It's an easy flight for us, so we've been here a few times & there's no pressure to try to see everything because we'll be back.  And believe me, I know I'm lucky to be able to say that.

 

Notre Dame from the front


and the back .......



We spent most of this trip on the Right Bank.  And took a long walk one morning around the Louvre and Tuilleries Gardens


Irises in bloom




Babies!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



The Louvre Pyramid.
 If you know me, you know that a trip to the market is a must.  And I get terrible market-envy!  It's my dream to live near markets like this:




Pat checking out some cheese. 



Rotisserie chicken (and other birds) are hugely popular at these markets. 


We stayed near the Opera house in the 8e in the Hotel Scribe. 

The Opera House

La Madeleine, a Roman Catholic church in the 8e

me
 One evening, we went to a jazz club called Sunrise Sunset.  We've been there a few times & love it.  Great music, great atmosphere.  It's in the 1e, in a very busy neighborhood.  And every time we go, we seem to have dinner at a local cafe that is right across the alley from this bar called the Bear's Den.  If you aren't sure what a "bear" is, I'll let you look it up :)

lot of "bears"
It was a packed house for the show

In a lot of cities with pedestrian bridges, you'll often see a bridge with"love locks", where lovers attach a padlock to "lock" it forever.  I thought this bridge was interesting.  See the black hearts?  Each heart is for a victim of domestic abuse and has a scancode.  If if you scan it with your smartphone, you can directly support a victim and help "release" them. 


J'aime Paris à tout moment de l'année!